Tuesday, 26 March 2013

Easter, It's Not Just For Christians.






When was the last time you ate trifle? Seriously now, have a think. While you're at it, when was the last time you had jelly and ice cream? or an ice cream Sunday? For me, these classics were relegated to my childhood, along with listening to music in my room for hours on end and smoking out of my bedroom window. For a long time I'd convinced myself that I hated trifle, mainly because of the jelly. 'Don't trust food that moves of its own accord' was my mantra, along with 'don't eat anything luminous'. However, just as it is only in the last 5 years I have been acquainted with the joys of piccalilli, more recently I have been dipping my toe into the custard, as it were, and falling in deeply in love.




When I was little, trifle was found in the fridge at Christmas time made by my Nan (I wasn't a massive fan for some reason. Of the trifle, not my Nan. By the way, that's not my Nan at the top, it's just a picture from 'The Internet', Copyright what?), and in later years found in individual, foil sealed plastic tubs with 'Sainsbury's Strawberry Trifle' written on the top. I don't remember ever touching these, and neither did my Mum, but my Dad who has a penchant for all things horrendous (Fray Bentos steak and kidney pies, fried egg on fried cheese on fried bread, griebenschmalz on toast...Google it) got through about 5 - 10 of these a week. I have to admit that at some point during my formative years I was partial to the Cadbury's chocolate trifles, but I don't put them in the same category, so I'll save that one for another day.





Anyway, Saturday just gone I was feeling a bit delicate, and had a very particular hunger. I wanted prawns and spaghetti, steak, chips, roasted mushrooms, avocado, and...trifle. I literally don't know what came over me. So, as you'd expect, I made one myself. Sort of. Whilst at the shop I spent some time sizing up the ready made trifles, and eventually came to the conclusion that although I wasn't feeling up to making my own custard, I definitely could do better than something knocked up in a factory.  I also decided that although I wanted something authentic, as we are in 2013, and despite the fact that we are in a double dip recession, I could do better than tinned fruit and ladies fingers.

My authenticity (when I say authentic, I mean the opposite of de-constructed, Nigella 'this is MY take on a classic' Lawson, nonsense) hinged on there being jelly in there somewhere. Not just fancy compote and real fruit, actual jelly. Hartley's Strawberry Jelly. Ripped into cubes into a Pyrex jug, painstakingly stirred (for ages) with hot water, indecently wobbly once set, jelly. My first major fuck up was trying to whip single cream - unsurprisingly it wouldn't. After 20 minutes in the KitchenAid at the highest setting, I had to admit defeat. My second major fuck up was when I realised that I didn't have a suitable bowl to make the trifle in. This should be cut glass, with straight sides, and deep. I made do with the Denby fruit bowl, but I did miss seeing the layers (it's the small things).

Despite these two fails, on eating it I was in jelly and custard heaven. I had forgotten the brilliant farty, sucking noise you get when serving trifle, and the way that the sponge soaks up the jelly to form a strange spongy, wobbly, moist union, so much greater than the sum of its parts. Because of the cream disaster (we just poured cream on top once it was in individual bowls) it did look a bit of a state, and if you have the time to make your own custard and wait for it to cool, all the better. But, for a pudding that took minimal effort it achieved maximum satisfaction. I'll put my 'recipe' if you can call it that, below for anyone who fancies getting reacquainted.



Top Tip - if you find yourself alone with it and you want to feel really decadent, eat it whilst in the bath, preferably with an enormous spoon. You might feel a bit self-conscious at first, but once you get past that, you won't stop smiling. And during these economically difficult and depressing times, it's a cheap thrill that costs nothing and harms nobody (just make sure you lock the bathroom door first).

Ingredients:

1 Tub top quality fresh vanilla custard (Waitrose or M&S do the best)
1 Packet of Hartley's Strawberry Jelly.
1 lemon drizzle loaf cake.
1 box of fresh  strawberries.
1 tub whipping cream.

Method:

Cut the loaf cake into chunky fingers (two finger width) and arrange at the bottom of your serving bowl. If you have it, splash over a bit of sherry, or Marsala, or if you're feeling dangerous, vodka (if you do use a spirit, use less than you would wine, obviously) Slice your strawberries in half (I like big bits of strawberry, and strawberry is a delicate fruit so doesn't really like being cut up small) and arrange them on top of the cake. Make your jelly according to packet instructions, and then pour all over your cake and strawberries. Refrigerate until the jelly has set (this varies, but allow at least a couple of hours). Once set, pour over the custard and put back in fridge while you whip the cream. Once, whipped, spoon over the top of the custard, run yourself a bath, find a big spoon, and remember to lock the door.





In other news, in the spirit of the season I decided to make some hot cross buns (yes with fresh yeast - I've also been rediscovering bread making, more of that later). Unfortunately, I forgot to put a cross of the top of them, so they are, according to Diesel 'Atheist Buns', and very tasty they were too.  Shame I can't get the bloody picture the right way up, but you get the idea.

Thursday, 21 March 2013

Bo Selecta


Bo Selecta





I promised you a run down on The Most Exciting Meal I Have Eaten All Year, so here it is. After reading a glowing review in The Sunday Times Magazine by AA Gill of a new London restaurant, I knew I had to go. After hastily booking a table for two on my Birthday, I then read every review I could find, and was thrilled and terrified in equal measure by everything I read. 'eye wateringly expensive' was a phrase that cropped up again and again, but I still believed the food would be worth it. So, on the 4th March 2013 (after purchasing a leather biker jacket and new scarf so I felt like I'd fit in somewhere trendy - God I'm getting old) at 1pm, Diesel and I strolled into Bo London, the first UK restaurant of the chef Alvin Leung ('Demon Chef' - his words, not mine), according to many, the 'Chinese Heston Blumenthal'.

http://bolondonrestaurant.com/

To say it was quiet would be an understatement. I'm not sure if it was the prices or the fact it was a Monday lunch time, but it didn't matter. There was some classic disco house playing in the background, and anyway, I was too excited about the food. There was us, one other table of two, and another couple who strolled in pissed when we were about half way through. They ate some stuff, spent a lot of time outside smoking between courses, and got through a few cocktails and a bottle of wine. If I can afford to be so nonchalant when dining out at 'eye wateringly expensive' restaurants at some point in the future, I'll be a very happy (and probably very unhealthy) lady. Lucky bastards.




Other Couple No 2 were on their fourth course as we started our first, and we echoed every gasp of surprise and giggle, a little bit like an emotional Mexican wave, but with more cutlery. I booked this place expecting the food to be a bit mental, and I wasn't disappointed. I was especially happy when I realised that we could have the same menu that AA Gill had. From the start, everything was surprising, exciting, a bit strange at times, a bit bizarre at times, but always delicious. Probably half of my joy came from having 11 courses at lunch, but then I am a bit of a pleb.

The Menu



Course 1: Dead Garden. Inside a pretty little bamboo box came the lightest avocado mousse I have ever tasted (it basically collapsed as soon as you touched it), covered with a dust made from morel mushrooms, a sprinkling of ginger dust, and dried enoki mushroom 'trees'. It wasn't a taste sensation like the first time you taste foie gras, but it was tasty, and it certainly had a novelty factor. God knows what sort of equipment they have in that kitchen.



Course 2: Bed and Breakfast: Presented on a beautiful little silver tree, two soft centred smoked quails eggs in a basket made out of fried taro root topped with caviar. Very tasty, but if I'm honest, I liked it because it reminded me of fried bread and fried eggs. The caviar did add a certain 'I don't know what' that you tend not to get in a greasy spoon though.



Course 3: Cloud. Unbelievably exciting, if only because it was the first thing I have ever been served on a bowl full of liquid nitrogen. The bubbling smoke was scented with rose water, the mackerel was AMAZING (I won't go into how much I love raw mackerel, as I have done at least 3 times previously), the pickled ginger added the right amount of sweet/sharp/spicy, and the grey ponzo foam was a stroke of genius 'to represent the British weather', as we were reliably informed by our French waitress. Thankfully, even I am a bit above taking comments about the British weather personally, and anyway were having far too much fun.




Course 4: Foie Gras. A huge piece, pan fried to perfection, on a bed of puffed rice noodles, with a few bits of red pepper and the most amazing sauce, made according to an old family recipe from the Chef's wife 'Abby', containing white miso and Chinese wine, and probably a number of other things. It was my favourite course, and the most hilarious. We were instructed to eat it with our hands, which reminded me of that Chinese Takeaway favourite 'Yuk Sung'. Every other time I have eaten Foie Gras in a restaurant it is prepared and served with a certain amount of gravitas, usually accompanies by something equally as expensive or refined (Bing Cherries, hazelnuts, fillet steak etc.) The novelty of eating a piece of it wrapped in an iceberg lettuce leaf BY HAND still makes me smile.




Course 5: Scallop. Just the one, with a barely there foam that left just a whiff of pea in your mouth, perfectly cooked, with jolo (no idea) and something crispy. It was delicious.




Course 6: Steak and Kidney. Steamed dim sum, filled with meaty steak and kidney (cut extra fine so there were no unpleasant chewy bits) and topped with more caviar to replace the oysters that were contained therein, back in the day when oysters were cheap and St Paul's was the tallest building in London. Now I don't like steak and Kidney (pudding or pie), but this was very good, and very clever. A steamed pudding to a steamed dumpling isn't a massive leap, but it does require thought and skill.




Course 7: Suckling Pig. Far and away the most beautiful dish, but the most disappointing for me. The flavours worked very well together (although the vanilla apple was a bit too vanilla and sweet and overtook the taste of the pork) and I loved the shavings of sweet poached pears, but the pork was really very chewy. which made for some very pregnant pauses in our conversation as we got through it. Great crackling though.




Course 8. Bai Jui. Essentially parfait (to quote Donkey from Shrek 'Everybody like parfait!'), with some caramel and some passion fruit honeycomb, all very light and delicious. I would have been happy with the honeycomb alone - it was a revelation. Flavoured Honey comb? We're a long way from home now Tonto.




Course 9. Coconut. A perfect Crème Brulee with some lovely sharp cherries hiding at the bottom of it. A master class in the most basic custard pudding. Perfect texture, perfect sweetness, perfectly thin and crisp caramel top.




Course 10: Petit Dim Sum. Macaroons which tasted just like err, macaroons (they were flavoured but by this point we were a bottle of wine down and drinking a glass of Chinese Ice wine which I was much more excited about) and some other little chocolate things which I nudged across the table towards Diesel (no noses were involved).




Course 11: Sex on The Beach. This is where it really got interesting. This course was optional and cost an additional £8, with all proceeds going to The Aids Foundation. That's all you're told - no descriptions, not details, nothing. This arrived:




Yes, that is a condom, albeit a condom made out of strawberry gelatine. And whilst that might look like...the stuff that you would expect to find in a used condom, it is in fact condensed milk. That there it is lying on is a beach made of honeycomb biscuit sand, underneath which was another mousse of something or other, and next to it is an shell made of (milk?) ice cream. It WAS delicious, and we didn't spill a drop(!), but for novelty/taste/hilarity this gets the prize for My Favourite Dish 2013 (Previous year's winners include 'Meat Fruit' at Dinner and the Cheese Soufflé at Le Gavroche). I'd go again for this alone. Which is interesting, as when we asked someone what the usual reaction from customers is on being served this, we were told that half of the people who had chosen it told them it had ruined their whole evening, and left at great haste. We were definitely in the other camp. I can't say I'm surprised that this is a dish that polarises people and I certainly couldn't imagine explaining it to my parents, but surely that's half the point. Most sadly, I think this is one that I won't ever be able to recreate at home (It would make for an interesting Saturday afternoon and subsequent post though).

The service was as you would expect from somewhere charging £100 for a set lunch menu, the restaurant itself is comfortable, elegant and very cool, everything we ate had clearly taken a lot of time and effort to put together (and was worth it, mostly), and if this isn't a restaurant hell bent on getting stars of the Michelin variety then I don't know what is. In fact, if by the end of 2013 they don't have one, I'll eat my hat, or another one of those strawberry love gloves. God knows I won't need much encouragement.

Monday, 11 March 2013


Hookers, Chicken and The Blues





Snow day in Guernsey. Nope, I didn't believe it possible either, but it's happening. I'm here in the spare room watching the snow swirl around outside, glad of the fact I'm not sitting in a car or walking home any more. I have just about gotten over our trip to London a few weeks ago. Perhaps not financially (that may take a few months), but emotionally and gastronomically, pretty much. There were so many highlights: Seeing my wonderful family and friends, listening to 'Anna Kounikova' sang live in The Blues Kitchen in Camden on my actual birthday, and of course the eating (and drinking). One of the meals will get a post of its own because it utterly deserves it, but this is the best of the rest:

Zuma (Knightsbridge)


Highlights: A very, very, very cool bar and restaurant, and my first ever visit. We went on a Friday lunchtime and there was a real buzz about the place. It was packed out, and everything we ate and drank was delicious, from the glass of champagne we had on arrival, to the chilled Sake, to the miso soup served with the Wagyu beef. Sashimi was spectacular (especially the mackerel, which is the best fish in my opinion to eat raw), the sushi was also spot on, the Wagyu beef was, well, Wagyu beef, so it was of course rich and buttery. And the decadent glass of Tokaji (2003) that I sneakily ordered while Diesel was in the bathroom was the icing on the cake. All in all, a very extravagant lunch for a Friday. The other highlight was that we didn't have to go Dutch as it was my birthday. Thank Goodness too, as I did see the bill, and it was eye watering. The photo below is of some prawns wrapped in something I don't remember and deep fried, served with a dashi based dipping sauce. Is there anyone who doesn't like deep fried prawns??


Lowlights: We didn't have the best table, a lot of the courses were brought out at the same time, and we weren't always told what we were being served, which was disappointing. If I go for a pizza I don't expect to be told in Detail what I've just been given, but when you're spending the best part of a ton each on a tasting menu, before drinks and service, for which you aren't given a menu on the table to refer to, a bit of conversation would have been appreciated. Also, it did feel a bit rushed. Minor complaints though because the food and drink were delicious. We didn't spot any Kardashians which wasn't exactly disappointing, but there were lots of impossibly beautiful young Russian models with short, old, balding, unattractive men. From the look of boredom on the ladies faces, I don't think they were there for the sparkling wit and conversation. It's not that I mind being surrounded by hookers when eating expensive raw fish, it's just that it feels a bit unusual. Or maybe that's just me. Anyway...


Chicken Shop (Highgate)


Highlights: Pretty much everything. The menu couldn't be more simple (Spit roasted chicken, either whole, half or quarter, four side dishes to choose from, three desserts, and red or white wine in three price brackets. That's literally it.) The service was warm and friendly, attentive, quick, just generally exactly what you wish it was every time you go out to eat. We went without a booking, with two toddlers under four, and five adults, and everyone (from the under twos to the over sixtys) couldn't get over how good the food was. Chicken and chips is one of my favourite things anyway, as it reminds me of some of our first visits to Spain, where I had garlic chicken and chips together for the same time (to a five year old from the Midlands on holiday in Spain at the end of the 80's, that seemed pretty fucking exotic, believe me). I can still taste it now. Sides: Corn on the cob came slathered in butter, avocado and bib lettuce salad offered a necessary bit of greenery (I am still in the throes of a protracted love affair with avocado). Coleslaw was fresh and not drowned in mayonnaise, chips were hot and crispy and seasoned perfectly, and the hot sauce (blow your nuts off) and chipotle hot sauce (deeply smoky) went perfectly. The absolute highlight was the family sized apple pie that was brought straight out to us from the kitchen, straight from the oven, and served at the table to us individually, with one of those huge spoons more commonly found in school canteens. All puddings (the apple pie, the lemon cheese cake and hot chocolate brownie) come with vanilla ice cream and an enormous jug of double cream (yes, we tried them all). I am not joking when I say that this is the best apple pie I have EVER EATEN. There are no photo's of it because it was eaten far too quickly. Nursery food at its absolute best. Next time I go to London, I am going to get here at lunchtime, eat all afternoon, drink lots of wine, and roll out just in time for bed. If you take anything I say seriously,  please visit this place. Cheers.


Lowlights: Really struggling here...the wine was served in a white jug into tumblers, which I know is all the rage and that but it's just not my sort of thing. That's probably about it, and that isn't really a complaint. It was a bit of a bastard to find (there isn't exactly a name above the door) which was frustrating because we were hungry and hung-over, but I suppose that's not really a problem because it makes it feel all the more like some sort of secret club. Let's be honest, this place won't win any Michelin stars, but that's not the point of chicken and chips. The only other lowlight I can really think of is that it's so far away from Guernsey.

Hong Kong Diner (Soho)
Highlights: Roasted crispy belly pork with crackling as thin as glass, stir fried pak choi with garlic and ginger, soft shell crab and hot and sour soup.
Lowlights: The goyza were a bit disappointing, the service is...interesting, and it certainly isn't a glamorous place to eat. This was my second trip to this restaurant, my first with a hangover and my first with someone who doesn't really like Chinese food. I had to do all the ordering (which was in itself a bit stressful), but I somehow managed to order the right amount of food (a revelation), nothing came in a thick and gloopy sauce, and although you're in the heart of China town, sitting in one of the booths felt like a little retreat from the madness of Soho, and the food was just as good as I remembered it. Double thumbs up.

The Blues Kitchen Camden (Camden)
Highlights: Chicken wings that tasted as good as the ones we had every day in California, a HUGE portion of beef ribs for £10 (Monday nights are rib nights), having dinner with Chris, Caz and Dave, and seeing a school friend (http://www.oliverdarling.com/) play the guitar and sing for a few hours. It really was the perfect way to spend a birthday. All rounded off by late night mojitos in a dodgy bar in Camden. Now that's what I call turning 28 2013!


Lowlights: The service was disorganised, but very friendly, and there was a huge group in for a works party who made more noise than I think I have ever heard any group make, ever. Other than that, no complaints at all.

Dinner Chez Faulkner (Finchley, it's not easy to get a table here though I'm afraid)
Highlights: Watching Romaine teach my four year old niece how to plait hair, watching my nephew take his first unaided steps, eating a wonderful chilli made by my fabulous brother (made with shin of beef, slow cooked for three days, pinto beans, can of larger, amazing), guacamole made by Romaine, chocolate cake, seeing my Mum, staying up late drinking red wine.


Lowlights: Don't be ridiculous.