Mora Guernsey

On good authority, last week Diesel and I went to Mora (St Peter Port Guernsey) for dinner, after promises of hanging legs of ham, numerous cosy booths (I love a good booth), good wine, good tapas and friendly staff. I've been to Mora once or twice before, both times when someone else was paying, both times I have been very glad of that fact. It is not that I found either experience that awful (well the second one was, but that was more to do with the arsehole sat opposite), it's just that like so many places in Guernsey, it has an uninspiring menu, serves average quality food, and charges far more than it should.

The whole downstairs of Mora has recently undergone quite a significant refurbishment, and they have a new menu:

http://mora.gg/brasserie/

They have moved the bar from one end of the building to the other, creating a curved brick ceiling at the front of the bar, and adding booths with stained glass partitions (why?). I guess the idea is that it feels more cosy, like a wine cellar or similar, straight out of Italy. My feeling is that they're not fooling anybody. Other than the brick ceiling, it reminded me of some of the better examples of the UK pub chain that rhymes with 'netherspoons'. However, despite all this, we enjoyed a very warm welcome from three staff who had very little else to do (it was an exceptionally quiet night) and had a drink at the bar, which annoyingly was not furnished with any hooks for handbags. If you don't carry a handbag/do carry one but don't care if it goes on the floor this won't be a problem. As I do, and I do, it was. One vodka and tonic (Britvic tonic, again, why?), and some complementary olives and a few slices of ham later, we were taken to our (large) table. Incidentally the 'San Daniele' ham was freshly carved, and is the (almost) only reason I will be returning to Mora again. More of that later.

Shortly after sitting down, our selection from the tapas menu arrived smelling fantastic (fried chorizo smells pretty sexy wherever you are). We were sat in a booth at a table that would easily seat 4, although it didn't feel it once we had been presented with the various long wooden boards onto which the tiny white plates containing our food was perched. Once everything had arrived it looked like we were about to decide the strategy for a battleship invasion. I know that this is a presentation thing, and yes they did look nice, but surely that's only half the point. I don't think a lot of Chef's sit down in the restaurants that they cook for and actually experience what it is like to sit down, order and eat. Which they should. Even if just to understand what the practicalities are of the things they serve their food on. Once we'd had a shuffle round (taking everything off the boards and relegating them to the end of the table) we could focus on the food.

The tapas was at best, average, and at worst, quite unpleasant. calamari with chorizo (not chewy, but that's the most memorable thing about it), chorizo on toast with a sweet balsamic reduction which was welcome, which in itself was a revelation as it never usually is. Tiny red peppers, skinned and stuffed with white crab meat mixed with mayonnaise, which were warm, and disgusting. Who thought this up? Has anyone ever served this before? Warm and crispy flat bread (delicious, second best thing we ate), sliced white bread (fresh-ish, but not warm) bread sticks in cellophane (try harder), and more of the amazing ham, which we then ordered more of. Additionally we had some grilled goats cheese with rocket, which was nice. But it isn't exactly tapas. And I can't understand why it was on a tapas menu, when other more obvious items were not. More important items. Like white anchovies. And Spanish Omelette (I don't know why everyone is so sniffy about Spanish Omelette, it's delicious). The second most offensive item for me, was the tomato and red onion salad.

I take issue with most Guernsey restaurants in general, because they often overlook one  of the most important parts of the whole 'providing people with nice things to eat' game - sourcing ingredients. For too many restaurants, a tomato is just a tomato. Chicken is just chicken. When of course, it is not. And from an island famous for (amongst other things) it's tomatoes, I find this surprising and disappointing. I know it is winter time, but I also know that even during the Winter it is possible to get hold of deep red, ripe tomatoes that taste like tomato, if you are particular with your suppliers and you are prepared to pay a bit more for them. And if you can't get hold of them, don't serve them, especially if you're going to charge the best part of £4 for what probably equates to one and a half unripe tomatoes and a bit of sliced red onion. As we has ordered a selection of meaty, fishy, spicy, garlicky, cheesy plates, I thought a tomato salad would be a nice accompaniment. A bit of sweetness and acidity to cut through it all. And it would have been, had the tomatoes been anywhere near ripe.

I won't go into great detail about the wine because we just had a nice bottle of Rioja (nothing too expensive or exciting), and a bottle of water. I can't be exact about how much it all cost because I scored a hat trick and avoided the PDP machine for my third visit also, but if I had to guess, I'd say it was about £30 a head, including drinks.

I know that this isn't exactly a positive review, but I will be going back. The few things that Mora gets a thumbs up for, are in my opinion enough of a reason for a second visit. First of all, the staff were friendly and attentive, and made it clear from the moment we arrived that they really cared about whether we were having a good time. Admittedly it was a quiet night (something that I am sure will change), but we didn't have to wait for anything at all, and all requests were greeted with a smile. There aren't many places in Guernsey I can say that about. Secondly: the wine. The list was sensibly priced, and the bottle we ordered was very enjoyable. Speaking as someone who doesn't know an awful lot about wine (I know what I like, and not a lot else), it isn't somewhere I would come for the wine only if I did, but there was a reasonable variety, and options to suit most wallets. Lastly, and most importantly, the freshly cut San Daniele Ham. It was just awesome. Along with a few olives, and that fantastic flat bread, I can't think of anything better to accompany the occasionally compulsory 'drinks after work', or to bridge the long gap between Sunday breakfast and Sunday dinner. I'll have Mora that any day of the week.